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Adventures in the Colombian Amazon
Cabanas del Fraile; Puerto Narino, Amazonas, Colombia.
A Three-toed Sloth. An iconic animal by any measure, and a symbol of Latin America's incredible biodiversity. Seeing and photographing a sloth at close range on this tropical, sultry morning was incredible enough. All the more reason to brave the elements and visit the Amazon while it was still the rainy season in May of 2022. But behind a school, just a five minute walk from the hostel? Already, at the hostel itself, eight-foot-long Boa Constrictors were lying in wait for Squirrel and Tamarin Monkeys. Right across from my hostel, no less. What other surprises did the Tres Fronteras region have in store for me? As it turned out, it was to have many; so many of which I never could have expected.
The name “Tres Fronteras” means “Three Borders” in Spanish. It is an apt description, for it is the region where Colombia, Peru, and Brazil meet. Indeed, it is perfectly possible to go between the border regions of all three countries while leaving your passport at your accommodation! To get to the Tres Fronteras region, it is recommended to take a domestic flight from Bogota or Medellin to Leticia. A vibrant, sweltering city, Leticia is Colombia's gateway to the Tres Fronteras region. To truly get into the wild heart of the area, though, you must go deeper. Fortunately, a fast and economical speedboat can take you there from Leticia within three hours. For a cost of only $8 or $9. The last stop along the route is a town called Puerto Narino.
Puerto Narino is the epitome of all that is wild. It is a land of colorful birds, Pink River Dolphins, immense snakes, life-giving Kapok trees, and fish the size of a small car. It is rich in indigenous culture; particularly that of the Tikuna, which are the most prominent group in the Tres Fronteras area. Sound like an exotic region out of reach for the budget traveler? Well; think again. The area has many backpacker hostels, some of which you can stay at for as little as $10 a night. For a private room. And my destination was Cabanas del Fraile. The house of the Friar Monkeys; also known as Squirrel Monkeys. It was an apt name, for they were pretty much everywhere on the hostel grounds. The tourists who came to visit certainly knew that. So too did the massive Boas and the occasional Black-hawk Eagle.
Most of the houses you will see on your tours are built on stilts, which stretch all the way down to the forest floor. Perhaps as much as 30 feet. As the area floods during the rainy season, boats are the main means of travel.
A Three-toed Sloth? Right behind a school? Within easy walking distance of your hostel? No problem! Welcome to Puerto Narino, the wild heart of Colombia's Amazonas and Tres Fronteras region! Probably the best photo I have ever gotten of this species.
This highly-venomous Fer-de-lance snake found its way into another tourist’s shower through a drainage pipe. But don’t let this stop you from visiting Puerto Narino. Getting bitten is unlikely, and should the worst happen, there is a hospital in the town which carries anti-venom.
And that was but the beginning of the incredible wildlife around Puerto Narino and Cabanas del Fraile. The location is perfect for both independent exploration and some of the most economical tours of the Amazon you could possibly imagine! These tours, ranging in price from $15 to $30 at most, will sometimes venture into the Peruvian side as well. This makes Colombia, along with Bolivia, the best place to explore the Amazon for the budget backpacker. Boat is the name of the game during the rainy season, which stretches from November until May. Dry season is from June to October. There are strengths and drawbacks of visiting at either time.
The main drawback of coming during the wet season is mosquitos. Lots of them. Fortunately, the dorms and single rooms at Cabanas del Fraile and other hostels in the area are outfitted with nets. But make no mistake. You need repellent, and you will still likely get some bites. Nevertheless, coming during wet season is well worth it. You will learn how people in the indigenous villages navigate the flooded forest in wooden boats. They must, because ground that would be walkable during dry season is now up to 30 feet underwater! Wet season is also the best time of year to see Pink and Gray River Dolphins. The former will sometimes have babies with them. And it is also an excellent time to see sloths as they come down from the trees to escape the rain. A free bird observation tower yielded another surprise for me when a family of three Capybara showed up. Another iconic mammal of the region, they are also the world’s largest rodent. Exceeding weights of 100 pounds, they are a staple food source for three of the Amazon’s apex predators. The Black Caiman, Green Anaconda, and even the stealthy and elusive Jaguar all call Puerto Narino home!
Unfortunately, other creatures seek to escape the rains in Puerto Narino by sneaking into the cabins. And these include, at times, some uninvited guests. One morning, a frightened Dutch backpacker staying in the cabin next to mine came to tell me there was a snake in her bathroom. She showed me a picture. It was no Boa Constrictor, but a Fer de Lance; a relative of the Rattlesnake that is among the most venomous in the region. We summoned the local guide, who unfortunately was forced to kill it. Doubtless, it is a memory that will endure in our minds for as long as we live. As will so much else that Puerto Narino had in store for us.
Justin Harris is a teacher, world traveler, amateur photographer, nature enthusiast and citizen-scientist. He currently lives in Columbia.
Looking for your next adventure? Follow Harris on Instagram @ birdpackingadventures for more exciting travel ideas and bird-watching opportunities.
A Blue-and-yellow and Scarlet Macaw. By day, they live as wild birds. By night, they call the hostel kitchen home. Photo by Justin Harris
